Wheel Building Tip No. 4 – How to Pre-stress Your Wheel
[Note: this is #4 in a series of 20 wheel building tips to be published during 2009.]
Wheel builders often try to “pre stress” their wheels as a last step in the building process. All builders, especially novice, are nervous, wanting the new wheel to be as good and stable as possible. Like the rituals that preceded hunting in earlier times, we want to stack the cards in our favor. After all, hunting was important, uncertain, required skill and luck, and was potentially dangerous. Sounds like bike riding. Consequently most wheel building methods involve some sort of stressing routine.
Why Stress?
Two popular lines of thought underlie wheel stressing. First, spokes that wind up during tightening and truing should be unwound so the new wheel makes no noise if this unwinding occurs in initial riding. Unwinding spokes are also liable to make a wheel untrue and we want it to stay straight from new. In Tip No. 3, about spoke twisting, I recommend building in a way that leaves no residual windup. If you master such a technique, then there’s no reason to pre-stress for spoke windup.
The second idea involves stretching the component parts. If some outside stress can provoke stretch or yielding in the hub, spokes, or rim that might occur later in the wheel’s life, then it will be more stable and require fewer touchup’s. This makes sense but is not too important as the changes within a wheel during use mostly involve periodic reductions in tension, not increases. So yielding in the future, except during a traumatic event, is not much of a threat.
Give your wheels kind attention and they’ll return the favor.
The Science of Stress Relieving
Well then, what is a solid reason to “pre-stress” a wheel? Here we refer to material science and the well established practice of stress relieving. What a new wheel can really use is not, technically speaking, pre-stressing. It’s stress relieving. Any assembled structure involves new forces within its component parts. These forces involve static loads but they also involve trapped stress. Sometimes this stress is beneficial but generally it will make the structure less stable and encourage fatigue failure.
A good example (thanks, Jobst) is the grappling hook used by an industrial crane or derrick. Such a hook is expected to carry huge loads without deforming or wearing out. When it’s formed, a straight section of metal is bent into a “U,” the shape of the eventual hook. However, if the U is over bent a bit and then pulled open to the desired geometry, pent up stress in the metal is relieved. Such a hook is more rugged than one simply bent to shape. The over bent, then opened hook is stress relieved.
How to Stress Relieve
With a bicycle wire wheel, stress relieving can be done in two ways. First, as spokes are inserted into a given hub, you’ll notice that they often don’t exit the hub flange at exactly the correct angle. Tension of a finished wheel is enough to pull the spoke straight but it would have residual stress. It would secretly want to return to its pre tension shape. Each time tension was reduced, the spoke would tend to flex back to its original shape. This flexing would accelerate fatigue. The answer is to forcefully bend each spoke to the new shape PRIOR to tension. Even a bit of over bend is good. Then, with cycles of tension change during riding, the spokes will not be changing shape so much. That’s stress relieving.
A second stress relieving opportunity exists after the wheel is at full tension. If you grab side-by-side parallel sets of spokes, one in each hand, and give a forceful squeeze, their tensions will be momentarily increased without damaging the wheel. Increasing spoke tension and then lowering it back has the wonderful effect of reducing trapped stress. Such stress relieved spokes have enhanced fatigue resistance. Every handbuilt wheel deserves this simple touch.
Grabbing parallel spoke pairs.
After a few such squeezes or with aero spoks, you’ll begin wearing gloves.
Avoid Brutality
All too many pre stressing or stress relieving strategies are simply too rough. Pushing a wheel sideways with enough force to flex it is dangerous. It’s easy to damage the structure since this is its weakest dimension. I’ve seen builders step on their wheels or drop them from heights. In skilled hands, such techniques might have benefit but they take unnecessary time and often cause damage that requires additional repair. Some of these procedures are born more of superstition than science. But who can blame builders of the past? So much of a wheel’s secret is hidden from view and its seemingly magical balance of forces and strength in use is hard to explain. If there’s a superstitious part of your mind, I recommend you perform something gentle to the wheel, like a chant or burning some incense. If there are spirits who watch over our work, they’ll get the idea.
This is nuts. You’ve got to bed the spokes in or the wheel will need a retrue in 1 ride. I’ve built many wheels and worked on wheels built by others.
I’ll bet we have a semantic issue or our techniques appear different but functionally aren’t. I recommend “forcefully bending” spokes into position after lacing and then making large temporary tension increases on spoke groups after the wheel is finished. I don’t know what yo do to “bed the spokes” but it must accomplish the same if your wheels are as stable as the hundreds of thousands I’ve built and supervised. I favor my system because it is quick, does nothing unnecessary, is easy to teach, and rarely causes damage or regression to the wheel.
Based on my modest wheelbuilding activities… I’ve noticed that what I used to do to ‘bed the spokes’ was really more to untwist them (I did/do the ‘hands on the bench with a block-supported hub method’–keeps the force reasonable). Also, as my overall technique has improved, the pops and pings that I used to hear when ‘bedding the spokes’… have all but disappeared.
I think that, mainly for infrequent builders, a modest ‘check’ activity like the voodoo encourages can save time. But it does need to be reasonable force.
[…] Stress relievingStress relieving wheels is a very simple yet surprisingly key part in building to ensure long life and no spoke failures. The act of stress relieving a wheel is simply grabbing pairs of parallel spokes and squeezing. Not only does this help seat all the components together but it also relieves internal stresses in the metal that can lead to excessive fatigue. Most metals have a sort of “memory” built in where when you bend them, they naturally want to go back to their previous position slightly. You can see this if you take a piece of metal and bend it, if you bend it to exactly 90 degrees it will spring back slightly because of this “memory” so to get it to stay at 90 degrees you want to slightly overbend it so it can relax to the desired position. Honestly though, I can’t explain this nearly as well as Rick from Wheel Fanatyk, he was co-founder of Wheelsmith Spokes so he REALLY knows his stuff. He wrote a great article on the subject that I fully recommend you read if you like geeking out on this stuff. You can see that article HERE. […]
As initially built some local areas of the spoke, hub flanges, and rim will be more heavily stressed than other areas – the J bends and thread roots in particular can have higher residual stresses and also act as stress risers or concentrators when the wheel is tensioned. A the wheel rolls under load the spokes experience cyclical tensile stresses and the more highly stressed regions fatigue significantly faster than lower stressed regions (fatigue is an exponential function of stress), ultimately breaking. The goal of prestressing is to raise local stress sufficiently to plastically deform (flow) the most highly stressed regions while the bulk of the spoke remains within its elastic limits (no permanent deformation), with the result that when the pre-stress is removed the locally deformed regions recover to a lower tensile stress or even compressive stress state making them less susceptible to cyclic fatigue. The trick is in knowing how much force to apply. The “bilateral squeeze” method is good – if uncertain as to how much to squeeze, one can use a spoke tensionometer to gauge how close one is to the spokes’ eleatic limit.
Very nice. I will add my two cents. 1. Bedding the nipples, heads, or untwisting the spokes is kind of important meaning it will happen anyway, regardless of your intervention. BUT Stress relieving is a _different_ very important task. 2. I probably wouldn’t call it pre-stress, more like an over-stress. 3. Yes you are relieving residual stress, but more importantly you getting rid of any (self-induced) bending stress in the elbow by over-stressing. Before stress relieving, the spoke, if you were to un-tension it, it would probably want to point to say 4 inches left of the rim. That is, this is where it would naturally like to lie. But you grab it and pull it over to the rim’s spoke hole. Not a big deal right?, wrong ! : ) You’ve bent it (elastic or plastic, doesn’t matter you bent it ). Now it’s a Cantilever beam with force on it, with a bending stress in it, highest at the elbow. This stress doesn’t go away, but is additive to the tensile stress that gets added as the spoke is tensioned. Guess what? That bending stress plus the tensile stress (well its shear stress in the elbow) is invariably right up at yield strength of the spoke’s material. That high of stress (above the endurance limit) plus some cyclic stress and after about a million cycles (a couple years, depending) the spoke(s) breaks.
So what you are really doing with the over-stress is getting rid of that bending stress. You are trying to make the spoke, in its unloaded state, to naturally point right at the rim’s spoke hole. Since residual stress is what is in an object that is just sitting, unloaded, this induced bending stress probably technically cannot be called a residual stress. But whatever, we probably should just to keep things less confusing. The important thing is relieve it, by overstressing it, by grabbing spokes and ‘toggling over center on them’ and then releasing them. I personally do this task a bunch of times as I am building a wheel, at low tension, medium and final tension. But on final tension only, I am sure is fine. Minorly, you are also taking advantage of the Bauschinger effect which is “strain-hardening” or cold working the steel which makes it stronger in the direction of the over-stress.
Exactly!