Nipples aim from their rim holes in order to align with spoke angle. The goal is to have no bend in the spoke as it enters the nipple because threading there is a weak spot. Spokes can fracture in thread roots after many loading cycles. Nipple and rim shape determine the amount of spoke angle that can be accommodated. The angle is a product of hub and rim size, spoke number, and crossing pattern.

Today, rims are frequently smaller (650 instead of 700, 20” for folding, cargo, and e-bikes, etc.). Hubs can be larger (generator, internal gear, e-motors, etc.). These combinations produce spoke angles that are more concerning.

e-motor wheels are here

A perfect spoke angle is 90deg with no bend in the spoke. Side angles generated by hub width and dishing are rarely below 80 and most nipple-rim combo’s handle them. The angles we need to address are in the rim plane and a function of rim and hub size.

Different wheels, different spoke angles. Adapted from Grin spoke calculator.

Grin offers a great spoke calculator, among many valuable resources. It will determine the spoke-rim angle and, incidentally, works with paired spoking (another topic). Nipples can easily aim for entries of 80-90 degrees. Less than 75 may be accommodated. Below 70 is beyond most components and requires special attention. Solutions:

1/  Kink the spoke with a plier or wrench so it enters the rim at the nipple’s angle, a slow but effective process.

2/  Drill holes larger so nipples are freer to pivot, not an option or advisable on many rims.

3/  Reduce the lacing cross number to make an angle closer to 90. Despite sub-optimal torque geometry, many builders are doing it. As Grin says, “In spite of the popular wisdom not to use radial lacing on drive wheels, empirical experience has been that this isn’t really an issue with the large hubs in small rims.” The burgeoning e-bike scene cannot be slowed down even though appropriate rims are not available.

Radial motor wheel, they are in use!

4/  Rims could address this issue, for example, with a bulge at each nipple. Motorcycles figured this out 100 years ago. Drill the rim to accommodate the required angle. Here is a solution with optimal spoke angle and torque transmission. Cycling will certainly figure this out soon.

Rim drilled to match spoke angle.

Anticipate spoke angles and plan accordingly. An engineered solution to the situation requires initiative from rim makers. Let’s hope it is sooner than later so I can stop envying motorcycle wheels!

You’re building along when a nipple runs out of spoke thread. You feel an increase in friction as unthreaded spoke shaft encounters nipple threads. This can occur with a slightly too long spoke (or too small rim). What to do? Consider turning the nipple further into this stiff zone. Why?

1/  Nipples are softer metal (brass and aluminum) than spokes (steel) and their threads yield with minimal resistance. Also, spoke thread is rolled so peaks are above the spoke surface and valleys, below. When the nipple encounters the spoke shaft, only 1/2 of its thread must yield; far less interference than between two machined threads.

2/  Spoke threading, as with most thread forms, carries the entire tension load on 3 or 4 threads. The rest are available but not load bearing. Driving a nipple down a spoke a few turns past threading has inconsequential effect on load carrying capacity.

3/  Testing shows that nipples support spoke threads. When a few spoke threads are not engaged and when the spoke endures riding induced load cycles, fracture can occur in those empty threads. Full engagement increases spoke fatigue life for thread fracture. It would be an enlightened building strategy that forced all nipples to be turned further so no spoke threads were empty.

4/  A nipple driven further down a spoke develops friction that helps prevent vibration induced loosening, a good outcome for any hard-used wheel.

Beware of excess spoke protruding from the nipple inside the rim, it may interfere with the tire. Otherwise, please remember the possible benefits of tightening nipples past the spoke threads. Not all bad, in fact, there are some interesting benefits.

2cm wide, scaled for up to 320mm spokes

Now is a good time to introduce a new product, a better spoke ruler than any before. This ruler is by Pi Spokes, a very interesting project of which you will hear more in the future.

J-bend side

Features:

1/  At long last, a ruler marked in 0.5mm increments. These finer increments are easy to read (or ignore). Let’s face it, spokes are not all made exactly to whole millimeter lengths. Builders deserve to round up or down with complete accuracy. Spoke machines like our Morizumi can also cut precisely to 0.5mm so a finely graduated ruler is perfect.

Know your lengths!

2/  The spoke lies in a groove below the scale so the issue of visual parallax is minimized. Lengths can be more quickly established, even in poor light.

3/  One side is for J-bend elbows, the other for straight pull. The ruler is made of highest grade aluminum, scale is permanently laser etched over bright purple anodizing. Price is $20.

Wheel building is booming, though it’s rare to see evidence in the cycling press. I’d call it a work in progress, rather like craft brewing back in the day. Pioneers were scrappy and uncertain. When they first appeared, the big brewers knew it would be sporadic and limited (college towns, resorts). They actually got murdered over several decades and now craft brewing carries a large percentage of that market. This seems to be happening with wheel building. 

Today most small builders are in likely cities (Portland, SF, Seattle, Boulder, LA…) but their global rise (UK, AU, NZ, EU…) shows it’s not a local trend. Your area may be barren but many successful builders are elsewhere. Check these, among hundreds more:

• Magnetic Wheel Co. (Portland)
• Monument Wheel Works (Seattle)
• Diablo Wheel Works (Pacific Palisades, CA)
• Ergott Wheels (Islip, NY)
• Joe Young Wheels (Granbury, TX)
• Noble Wheels (London)
• Wheel Tec (Alkmaar, NL)
• Melody Wheels (O’Connor, AU)

Not personal recommendations (but all excellent). The more you look, the more you’ll find.

If you are contemplating getting underway I recommend exploring two questions.

Where Am I?
You may plan a strong web presence but your immediate scene is your most important asset. Local riding is a key element in your opportunity.

© Sugar Wheelworks (Portland)

Put aside personal preferences and experience because, as a wheel builder, you should welcome, understand, and whisper to all forms of wheels. Can’t do too much research and preparation to cultivate your local community.

Who Am I?
There are many types of builders. Wheel construction seems pretty straightforward but those who succeed do not share one approach. One science I hope, but not one style. Who are you? Understanding your style helps direct your effort and avoid confusion.

1. Hobbyest
Handy with tools, good with gear, likes self sufficiency, finds building fairly easy, builds own and wheels for friends and family. Not so keen to make a simple task complicated or dramatic.

2. Social
If you’re gregarious, wheel building can bring quite a range of human variety your way. Creating a business around the needs and exploits of riders is attractive to customers. You’ll want a welcoming workshop with plenty of ambiance and regular outreach.

© gravy wheels (Novato)

3. Nerd
Many an engineer type is drawn to building and customers, in turn, to them. Emphasizing tech with gauges and instruments, sharing spreadsheets and charts, teaching the “how” behind wheels can be a central theme if that is your drift. But it is not necessary to reek of tech. Performance minded customers need to trust but rarely require knowing all about the science.

© Cutlass Wheels (Baltimore)

4. Artistic
Wheels are beautiful and there is room for plenty of self expression for a builder. The bar is very high for visual compatibility with the bike, high finish of components, and unity of design. Aesthetics are an ever changing scene, rules flex, styles evolve, and builders help drive change. We’ve all noticed what fixies combine on machines so basic they simply showcase wheels.

© Roues d’Olive (Fully, Switzerland)

We are combinations of such types but discovering that inner builder is key to separating your offering from vague and mainstream options. Riders seek custom building for more than alleged benefits of value or performance. They want to deal with a real person, not just an “add to cart” button. There is no “better” style but the clearer yours, the greater authenticity you broadcast.

Authenticity attaches to wheels, gives them karmic power riders remember for years. Authenticity of our prized possessions adds meaning to our lives. That’s your ultimate product as a custom wheel builder.

Go for it and please share your experiences with others (and me :-)!