At last, a super effective, clear, odorless, non-toxic, FOOD SAFE, biodegradable oil for wheelbuilding.
- Amazing friction reduction, an almost slimy feel between fingers. Equivalent load capacity and wear reduction to the highest grade motor oils.
- High viscosity but easy to pour. Adheres to and compatible with all materials. Excellent corrosion resistance.
- Food safe (Kosher Pareve and HALAL registered) and biodegradable. No known symptoms from eye or skin contact or ingestion.
- 100% synthetic, extremely temperature stable. Over 100°F higher flash point than most petroleum or mineral based oils.
- Economical, available in 4oz (118ml) and 16oz (473ml) bottles with caps and Yorker spouts.
Wheel Fanatyk CLEAR meets high performance standards but takes toxicity seriously. To understand means seeing through over-simplified labels like “environmental,” “biodegradable,” “green,” “natural,” etc. For those of you who do, you are a lucky lot. Choices like the one I’m offering are key to living well in the 21st century.
Question: how best to apply CLEAR?
(1) Apply as you presently use oil. Many add to a freshly laced wheel, dripping into the partly occupied nipple bore and around the nipple head so it reaches the nipple-to-rim seat.
(2) Others prefer dipping nipples in oil, draining, and then sorting. Wheel Fanatyk’s Nipple Bath and Nipple Shuffler support this approach. Pick up each pre-oiled nipple from the Shuffler with a pointed tool like EVT’s Mulfinger or our Nipple Inserter. Then start the nipple on the spoke. CLEAR’s high viscosity means plenty is on the nipple even weeks after a soak-drain.
(3) To secure threads, use either a post-assembly Loctite™ (222 or 290) or DT Spoke Freeze™, or coat spokes with a compound like Spoke Prep™ prior to lacing. I prefer the last since Prep dramatically reduces friction so truing is less strenuous and more accurate. For me, this is fastest.
Question: what about linseed oil?
(1) It must be industrially boiled so that it will eventually dry. Boiled linseed oil retains the label “boiled” but no longer is. The equivalent chemistry is done today with additives that are usually not specified. Toxics in these additives (heavy metals) are in very low quantity and, besides, boiled linseed oil is intended as a paint or paint ingredient. Why risk if there’s an alternative?
(2) “Boiled” linseed oil dries by oxidizing. In a warm and humid atmosphere (competition in warm, humid conditions) drying can take two weeks; too long for an event in process. Oxidation releases heat and anything flammable (textiles, paper towels, wood chips) containing “boiled” linseed oil will catch fire, with near certainty. Closing the container limits oxygen so the fire may be delayed. This tendency to burst into flames makes “boiled” linseed oil a substance to handle with care.
The 4oz squeeze bottle is a generous amount for a busy wheelbuilder and enough to form your own opinion. You may resupply with the 16oz bottle but the 4oz container is still the most convenient to use if you apply at each nipple.
More details, here.
To download CLEAR’s MSDS, click here.